A l’Etoile d’Or: Chocolate Store in Paris (Denise Acabo )

On my first visit to Paris, I set out in search of a well known chocolate and confection store, A l’Etoile d’or. To my adventurous delight, this little store was not in the centre of Paris, but further towards the outskirts, not far from the Moulin Rouge. Map in hand, I navigated down a side street, past women of the night, working the day shift, and waved to the old lady on a second floor, leaning out of her window to hang washing over her dilapidated balcony whilst she talked to the pigeons. Then I arrived. A l’Etoile d’or is a find indeed.

This store exudes character, charm and a history that welcomes you through its door like you’re a long lost relative who has come home for Christmas. And then there is the magnificent shopkeeper herself, Denise Acabo. Denise wears a ‘uniform’ of sorts … tartan skirt, white shirt, neck tie, and hair in two plaits with ribbons flicking at the base. Extraordinary.

Whilst I stumbled to communicate with the non-English speaking Denise, she was excited to know I was in Paris to visit the Salon du Chocolat, and we shared a common love. Chocolat. I have returned twice since, a year apart each time, and I’m sure she doesn’t remember me, apart from the fact that I’m the amazon-like woman from Australia who towers above her petite status.

Chattering at rapid-fire rate, the delightful Ms Acabo forages excitedly through her shop to show you one chocolate treasure after the next, and through our love of chocolate we somehow understand oneanother. She loves to share that she is the only retail outlet in Paris of the beautiful Bernachon chocolate from Lyon, stocks the stunning Bonnat chocolate bars, and on my last visit I was ecstatic when she excitedly shared that she also stocked MOF Frank Kestener’s super dark jewels of chocolate, some made with very little sugar, and loads of dark chocolate goodness.

Purchases are wrapped in special paper she delights in explaining is actually printed with images of old cartoons and puzzles … as she turns the paper around and I see the hidden swans in the now upside-down image. I’ve never been able to decipher any of the other puzzles … but I nod and smile politely whilst I’m sure she thinks I have a learning disability.

This beautiful old shop is a an absolute treasure trove, and for chocolate enthusiasts is a must on any Paris chocolate itinerary, for all its quirkiness, history and chocolate flare.

BERNACHON CHOCOLATES - Lyon, France

In Lyon, a jewel of a chocolate shop owned by the family Bernachon, roast and grind beans to create their own chocolate bars …. They were a bean to bar creator long before it became fashionable. I would argue Bernachon create some of the most beautiful chocolates in France. There isn’t a lot I wouldn’t do for one of their signature Palet d’O

r bon bons …. A dark offering of sublimeness that needs no flavour other than the intens

e chocolateness it offers.

Beautiful packaging, a stunning boutique and an impressiv

e array of pastries combine to make Bernachon a must visit if you find yourself in Lyon.

Valrhona - Aux Sources du Grand Chocolat

When you talk about French chocolate, you can’t help but mention Valrhona. Valrhona’s headquarters, training centre and La Boutique is in the little village of Tain l’Hermitage, an hour train ride from Lyon, itself a couple of hours very fast train ride south of Paris. A chocolate lovers heaven on earth, this store overflows with chocolate to be tasted, and helpful staff encouraging you to taste until you can no longer!

Tasting was the order of the day in this store, and the sophisticated ‘tasting wheel’ and tasting notes are great tools. The staff didn’t speak any English, so you’re really on your own if you can’t speak any French, in fact the same for most of the village, that I experienced. As long as you can bluff your way through a menu to order food, wine and of course chocolat … you will be fine! I would encourage anyone in this area of France to visit Valrhona, and enjoy the incredible tasting experience.

Of special note were the Chocolats Noirs – De Domaine, the entire selection presented in a beautiful timber display case. ‘Exclusive chocolates created from a selection of beans grown on a single, unique plantation’. Beans for this range of three dark 64% cacao solids chocolate had been grown in Venezuela, Madagascar and Trinidad.